This Months Specialty Needle is the:
Stretch Needle
At the risk of repeating myself - it is important to use the right needle for the project we are sewing for optimum results.
The Stretch Needle is similar to the Ball Point needle except that it is constructed with a medium ball point and specially designed scarf to assist in the prevention of skipped stitches. Because of this special scarf design, the thread forms a longer loop under the fabric for the bobbin thread to pass through, thereby reducing the skipping of stitches.
Its primary use is to sew on very stretchy knit material with two-way stretch; such as, synthetic suede, highly elastic knit wear, elastic, garments containing Lycra rubber in swim wear and lingerie, and spandex. The medium ball point allows the needle to pass between the fibers - pushing them aside - to eliminate a potential ugly run.
While this may be a type of needle you will use the least, consider having a pack on hand for those "just-in-case" moments. This is the first choice needle for sewing any type of elastic. If your encountering skipped stitches from using a ball point needle try switching to a stretch needle. This may solve the problem.
Stretch needles generally are available in two sizes: 75/11 and 90/14.
75/11 needles are a standard choice for sewing on most medium weight knits with two-way stretch. Normal threads used would be between sizes 50 to 60.
Size 90/14 is used for medium to heavy weighted stretchy knits or elastic - choose a 30 to 50 weight thread.
Remember:
As always, choose needle size based on the type and size (weight) of thread that will be used, in addition, to the weight and type of fabric that will be stitched.
The needle should: slide easily through the fabric without damaging fibers or create too large of a hole, and to pass the thread smoothly without damaging or breaking it when sewing.
When deciding what size needle to use - remember this... finer the thread the smaller the needle. If you experience trouble you may need to increase the size of the needle or switch to a more speciallized type of needle.
Remember that each time the needle punches into fabric dulling of the needle occurs. Tiny nicks and burrs can develop that cause broken threads and tearing of fabric. To obtain the best results possible change the needle each time you begin a new project, anytime you experience looping or skipped stitches, when threads begin breaking often, and after approximately 6-8 hours of continuous stitching.
BEST ADVICE! There is no firm, fast rule to solving problems associated with needles. Experimentation to solve problems is the best advice. Keep a variety of needle types, sizes, and finishes on hand so you will have the tools needed to solve any related problem.
